A few weeks ago I finished up the 12-week lattice light training plan. What follows is an enthusiastic endorsement of the plan and the training app that lattice provides, along with some reflections on where I’m at with climbing. My motivation for signing up was pretty simple. I knew we were heading into lockdown. I have a good fingerboard setup at home, I thought that in order to make the most of the enforced home time I should get some structured guidance on how to use my home board. ... (more)

I wrote a large post at the start of this year reviewing my climbing goals over previous years, and laying out my goals for 2014. A key modification for me in 2014 is changing to a strategy where I set goals quarterly, rather than yearly. Let’s review Q1. Goals for q1 2014 try at least 12 routes of 6c or harder I managed to try exactly 12 routes of 6c in the last 12 weeks, and my last try yielded success. ... (more)

For the last couple of years I have done an end of year review of my climbing over the previous year, and set myself some goals for the coming year. Rather than doing exactly the same thing this time, I thought it would be good to look back at several of these reviews over the past couple of years, look at the data on my climbing, and see if I could discover any insights. ... (more)

Well, it’s been a while since I wrote up my climbing goals for 2010, and I totally missed doing this for last year, so as we ease our way into 2012 it’s high time that I do the same again. The key goals for 2010 were: redpoint fr 7a boulder V5 trad E1 some trips to do some trad climbing Well, since then I achieved the following: onsight 6c+ indoors redpoint 6c outside boulder V4 a few HVS’s So, not quite breaking through to where I wanted to be, but there is a feeling of definite progress. ... (more)

Looking back at my goals for 2009, I've not done very well, however my current level of fitness is pretty good, so I think 2010 is going to be a good year. The main factors in holding back my climbing in 2009 were taking a few months off to get married and not being able to rent a car. Getting married was absolutely worth it, and the level of organisation and stability I have in my life now due to being married will only help in the long run. ... (more)

Right, well, I'm pretty interested in graph theory. I work in publishing for the journal Nature on new web products, and I need a focussed way of getting my thoughts together on a range of topics that touch on science. I wanted a space that was more focussed than my personal blog. I have a few specific aims for this blog. Get some of my thoughts on publishing, science and the philosophy of science out of my head and into an archived public space ... (more)

Back in January I set myself some goals for my climbing in 2008. The results at the end of the year were mixed, which means that I succeeded with some of my goals and patently failed with others. The was: * Onsight Grit E2 * Redpoint f6c+ * 10 weekende+ trips in UK * 5 red problems in a day in font * 80 kg weight * build climbing wall ... (more)