Climbing Goals 2012, review 2011
Sun Jan 8, 2012
Well, it’s been a while since I wrote up my climbing goals for 2010, and I totally missed doing this for last year, so as we ease our way into 2012 it’s high time that I do the same again.
The key goals for 2010 were:
- redpoint fr 7a
- boulder V5
- trad E1
- some trips to do some trad climbing
Well, since then I achieved the following:
- onsight 6c+ indoors
- redpoint 6c outside
- boulder V4
- a few HVS’s
So, not quite breaking through to where I wanted to be, but there is a feeling of definite progress.
- font 6b, at fontainbleau
- 6c sport climb at Portland
Alltogether it was an OK year even though I have still not sent La Marie Rose, but if you contrast my training diary between 2010:
you can see a big hole in the middle of 2011 where I took time off to refit my kitchen. The second half of 2012 will also be very distrupted from a climing point of view (though with some very good reasons that I am very much looking forward to).
Today at the Castle I maanged to fire off a 6c, and 6c+, the 6c+ being on-sight. I’ve decided that my:
Goals for 2012 are as follows:
- remain injury free
- significantly reduce the amount of alcohol that I consume
- fall off at least 10 routes of 6c or harder/month
- redpoint 7a, but don’t stop trying harder things
- get three campus board sessions or power hand sessions into my training per month
For the most part what I have realised is that what I have control over are the things I choose to do when I go training. If I can keep focussed on making sure that I don’t have any anxiety about what I am trying to climb, and that I am really pushing myself and my body, then the grades and routes will come naturally. I want to climb hard, but I don’t want to set goals that will lead me to focus on that one climb, rather I want to focus on making the journey and the process a good journey, that is using my time in a very efficient way.