Climbing review of 2012, goals 2013.24 Mar 2013 in climbing, bouldering, training
212 climbing review.
OK, time to review the year. I wrote out some goals at the start of last year.
Goals for 2012 were
- remain injury free (not done)
- significantly reduce the amount of alcohol that I consume (done)
- fall off at least 10 routes of 6c or harder/month (not done)
- redpoint 7a, but don’t stop trying harder things (not done)
- get three campus board sessions or power hand sessions into my training per month (done)
My training diary from 2011 looked like:
And for 2012 it looked like:
There were two large disruptions to my climbing this year:
- I was diagnosed with Dupteron’s contracture, leaving a three month gap where I did no climbing.
- I had a wonderful baby son.
The key effects were that I prioritised away from routes to bouldering for the second half of 2012. It also meant that I had far fewer trips out than in previous years, with only a few short day trips in January, and one afternoon trying a famous bouldering problem in Edinburgh.
I also bought a beastmaker 1000, and started to use it regularly.
In 2011 my bouldering tally looked like:
total ~ 250
v3 - 55
v4 - 8
v5 - 0
And in 2012 it looked like:
total - 322
- born free in Swanage, fr 6b+, one of the best lines I’ve ever climbed. I tried it in 2011, and didn’t get it clean. This time I didn’t feel as strong on the route, but I knew what was coming and I did it.
- making real progress in my bouldering
Goals for 2013
I guess it’s time to set some goals. I’ll try and use SMART metrics this time - Specific, Measurable, Attainable, Relevant and Timely. The main trip that I have planned for 2013 will be a trip to font, so that also provides a good anchor for goals for this year. I’ll also try to tie long term goals for 2013 with “now-actions” that move me towards those long term goals.
SMART goals for 2013
- 520 boulder problems
- one fingerboard session/week for weeks where I am at home
- La Marie Rose
- climbing Inner City Riots
- Try font 6b/6c and 7a problems when in font.
- redopiont 7a+ indoors
- read “Better Bouldering” by John Sherman
- get away for one climbing trip to Switzerland with Daniel
- climb a Dream of White Horses
Long term goals with now-actions
Climb V6 try V4/V5 problems every month for the first six months of 2013
Get to 79 kg get to 80 kg by the end of Jan
Climb 520 boulder problems in 2012 climb 40 boulder problems in Jan