212 climbing review.

OK, time to review the year. I wrote out some goals at the start of last year.

Goals for 2012 were

• remain injury free (not done)
• significantly reduce the amount of alcohol that I consume (done)
• fall off at least 10 routes of 6c or harder/month (not done)
• redpoint 7a, but don’t stop trying harder things (not done)
• get three campus board sessions or power hand sessions into my training per month (done)

My training diary from 2011 looked like:

And for 2012 it looked like:

There were two large disruptions to my climbing this year:

• I was diagnosed with Dupteron’s contracture, leaving a three month gap where I did no climbing.
• I had a wonderful baby son.

The key effects were that I prioritised away from routes to bouldering for the second half of 2012. It also meant that I had far fewer trips out than in previous years, with only a few short day trips in January, and one afternoon trying a famous bouldering problem in Edinburgh.

I also bought a beastmaker 1000, and started to use it regularly.

Bouldering tally

In 2011 my bouldering tally looked like:

total ~ 250
v3 - 55
v4 - 8
v5 - 0

And in 2012 it looked like:

total - 322
V2 86
V3 90
V4 19
V5 2

Climbing highlights

• born free in Swanage, fr 6b+, one of the best lines I’ve ever climbed. I tried it in 2011, and didn’t get it clean. This time I didn’t feel as strong on the route, but I knew what was coming and I did it.
• making real progress in my bouldering

Goals for 2013

I guess it’s time to set some goals. I’ll try and use SMART metrics this time - Specific, Measurable, Attainable, Relevant and Timely. The main trip that I have planned for 2013 will be a trip to font, so that also provides a good anchor for goals for this year. I’ll also try to tie long term goals for 2013 with “now-actions” that move me towards those long term goals.

SMART goals for 2013

• 520 boulder problems
• one fingerboard session/week for weeks where I am at home
• La Marie Rose
• climbing Inner City Riots
• Try font 6b/6c and 7a problems when in font.
• redopiont 7a+ indoors
• read “Better Bouldering” by John Sherman
• get away for one climbing trip to Switzerland with Daniel
• climb a Dream of White Horses

Long term goals with now-actions

• Climb V6 | try V4/V5 problems every month for the first six months of 2013
• Get to 79 kg | get to 80 kg by the end of Jan
• Climb 520 boulder problems in 2012 | climb 40 boulder problems in Jan